Fisherman Friday; Captain Donnie McHenan

It’s been too long since our last fisherman highlight, so we were very pleased when Donnie “Hambone” McHenan invited us over to talk about his time as a lobsterman. Rarely (if ever) called Donald, colloquially known as “Hammy” or “Hambone,” and to the masses, Donnie, shared with us some stories from his decades on the water.

Growing up in downtown Stonington, from childhood (five or six years old), Donnie was drawn to being on the water. “I’d go down and steal a skiff to go around the harbor. My mother would look for me, eventually find me, and go tie me to the apple tree. Well, I’d stay out there for a while, then wiggle that rope enough to loosen it up, and down to the shore I went! She finally gave up. I always loved the water.”

Donnie’s father was often away from home, driving granite off the island, but Donnie wanted to stay closer to home. He got his lobster license while in school and started with a rowboat. Here is Donnie with his first two lobsters in 7th grade:

Donnie moved to a 16’ Gardner Gross with a 25hp outboard (F/V: Regina Ann). He’d go out before and after school and throughout the summer. By his senior year, Donnie “upgraded” boats again to an old, wooden, LEAKY Jonesport boat, The Sliver. “I learned a lot about repairs those 5 years” Donnie reflected, “I was broke down more than I was anything else.” From there he moved into a new 30’ fiberglass boat in 1977 (F/V: Angela Marie), but needed a bigger boat for scalloping, so he moved into a 34’ Webber Cove (F/V: Angela Marie II).

In addition to initial boats, Donnie remembered how he got the components of his first five traps. “My father was driving for Heanssler’s, taking lobster down to Boston, and he told me, “I’m going to buy you five traps.” He drove down to Kenniston’s in Warren with a fifth of Seagram’s 7.” This was the trade for Donnie’s first five traps.

 

Lobstering wasn’t the only work on the water for Donnie. While in high school, around 1967/68, he worked for the Isle au Haut mailboat making $15/week (plus tips) for two summers with Stan Dodge (Old Man Stan Dodge). Part of Donnie’s job while onboard was to help load and unload various cargo heading to & from Isle au Haut. One hot summer day, about 15lbs of ground beef was headed out to the hamburger joint ran by Dottie Dodge. When they got to Isle au Haut, Donnie unloaded the boat, and everything carried on. “The next morning, I came down, swabbed the deck, just like I was supposed to do, cleaned the boat up… well that 15lbs of hamburg was right where it had been put the day before. And it was quite warm. So the hamburg wasn’t any good.” Well, some of the folks around the dock heard what had happened, and Vern “one of the older fellas, started calling me Hamburger.” Which has morphed into Hammie, Hambone, “or whatever other variations on that name, but that’s where it came from, anyway. 15 pounds of rotten hamburg.” Here’s Donnie and Gina in high school:

Many boat upgrades later, Donnie has been fishing his current boat, F/V: Daddy’s Girls since 1993. Here’s a photo from the day it was launched:

This H&H is named for his two daughters, Angela and Traci (Regina, Donnie’s wife, gets a mention on the stern as well), this 37’ boat seemed massive at the time, but has remained comfortable and fully functional for 30 years!

Although retired from winter fishing now, Donnie used to go offshore for lobsters and would drag for scallops. “I started going scalloping on the stern for Honk Billings… there was a lot of raving and hollering” Donnie remembers. He also recalled one memorable February vacation during high school, “I think it was February of 1972… and me, and John Williams, and Frank Jones were out in Smalls Cove on LDI clamming… it was cold. Very cold. And we helped ourselves to a small camp on the shore nearby. There was plenty of chopped wood and we used the stove to warm up. We didn’t think anything of it! Well, John’s father found out, and made him go apologize to the owner and chop & replace the wood. “He said we didn’t hurt anything and there wasn’t a problem.”

When asked about the craziest thing he’d seen while out on the water, Donnie remembered a moose swimming around Spoon Island. “He was going South. We tried to get him turned around.” Another time, just a couple of years ago, when Donnie was out hauling gear, he remembered hauling up the first trap, “and the water next to the boat turned as white as a sheet of paper” then the next trap came up and when Donnie went to bring it aboard, a great white shark was there, biting the trap! “It was all teeth!!” The most unusual thing he’d ever hauled up in a trap? “I got a rear end of a pickup truck and a brake assembly.” These parts had been left in that back of his own truck and someone had taken them, and put them out in one of his traps. “Called it hard bait.” His favorite part about lobstering: “being my own boss (minus answering to Gina).”

Donnie has sold his daily catch to Greenhead Lobster for over 20 years. When not fishing, you might see Donnie and Gina out for a Sunday cruise in their Camaro. Many thanks to Donnie (and Gina!) and to all the independent fishermen & women who sell to us.

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Hugh’s Take: Maine Lobster, Right Whales, and the Revocation of MSC Certification

The Maine lobster industry has appeared in the headlines lately, and we have been working through the complicated context and its effect on Greenhead Lobster as a business, the industry at large, and our local fishing community. We are dismayed by the revocation of MSC certification for Maine lobster and are concerned for the potential outcome on lobstering communities along our coastline.

For over 20 years, the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) has developed standards to certify sustainable fisheries and educate consumers. MSC works with MRAG Americas, a third-party auditor, to assess data and determine if fisheries meet sustainability standards. Together, they determined “Maine’s fishery is unlikely to cause harm to endangered North Atlantic right whales, because of limited overlap between the fixed-gear fishing areas and whale habitat.” On November 16, 2022, MRAG released an updated report expressing “there is no new evidence to change our existing determination that the effects of the Unit of Assessment fishery (Gulf of Maine LMA 1 lobster) on the population of North Atlantic right whales… We also determined that the Gulf of Maine LMA 1 lobster fishery is unlikely to be hindering the recovery of these whales, based on existing evidence.” (source)

Additional findings from MSC’s most recent assessment, include startling information like 70% to 80% of the lobster vertical lines (and landings) in the U.S. are set shoreward of North Atlantic Right Whale (NARW) critical habitat boundary, in an area assigned only 3% of the risk to NARW in the risk reduction model used by the ALWTRT. The report also discusses how changing water temperatures have driven copepods (NARW main food source) further north, out of the Gulf of Maine, meaning the areas where Maine lobstermen & women set their gear, is not within the critical foraging habitat of the NARW. (source)

Furthermore, MSC’s assessment found that when it comes to negative interactions with NARW, “the majority of the interaction occurs with fisheries other than the U.S. [and that] the effects of the Gulf of Maine fishery on the population are likely to be within limits of national and international requirements for protection of the North Atlantic right whale.” (source)

So, with all the scientific data found by MSC and MRAG Americas, which shows what negligible impact (3%), the Maine lobster fishery has on NARW, why is the MSC certification being revoked? It is because a “federal court ruling (Center for Biological Diversity v Gina Raimondo, Secretary of Commerce) found that regulations intended to reduce the risk of the Maine lobster fishery to right whales do not meet the legal requirements of the Marine Mammal Protections Act and Endangered Species Act.” (source) This finding is based on data modeling that indicates a potential risk, not actual recorded events of harm to whales. Additionally, the data is older and does not account for warming water temperatures, which has affected the NARW food source, and thus their habitat. The actual data indicates ZERO ENTANGLEMENTS since 2004. Much of the data used to model the case against the American Lobster Fishery came from Canadian waters. Despite this fact, the Canadian fisheries can retain their MSC certification for the simple reason that they do not have any laws like the Endangered Species Act.

Regardless, MSC is required to revoke their certification because of the technicality with the federal ruling. Without the MSC certification, sales of Maine lobster will decrease, hurting overall demand and the industry at large. Moreover, the entire culture of modern Maine is at risk. For hundreds of years, Maine’s identity IS the working waterfront and all that comes with it.

Greenhead Lobster is proud to be from the Deer Isle-Stonington community. With around 3,000 residents, ~400 carry captain’s licenses and employ ~600 crew. Add in the lobster buyers/dealers, dock workers, and truck drivers, and you can see that lobstering is a critical part of our community’s economy and way of life. This sentiment is shared along the Maine coast.

Rest assured, Greenhead Lobster customers will always be buying lobsters that were caught by a fishing fleet that is committed to sustainability, including the safety and well-being of the North Atlantic Right Whale.

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Hugh’s Take — Inflated Lobster Prices

We have been talking a lot about the pandemic it’s impact on the lobster industry supply, demand, and pricing, but unfortunately that impact is still ongoing. While it’s starting to feel like the ‘beginning of the end’ for the virus and it’s social and economic disruption, the ‘reopening’ is actually driving up demand, and having a major impact on the lobster market, much like the initial shutdown did on supply. Demand continues to rise for all lobster, particularly processed meat and tails.

Increased Costs and Consumer Prices

Prices for tails have never been higher. Price indexes are reporting record highs weekly with no signs of slowing down. At a time where we normally see prices decrease based on the season opening and increased supply, prices are climbing dramatically for consumers based on the costs of raw material. Boat prices went up another fifty cents this week. Processing has become more expensive with the limited supply. And even at these record high consumer prices, we still can’t keep any product on the shelves. We are not freezing any CK meat because we can’t meet the demand for fresh, and are turning away new customers and struggling to keep up with the demand of our loyal, valued customers.

The Impact

We expected this year to follow the normal cycle of pricing where prices reduce as the lobster season opens in Canada and the ‘bugs’ hit the shores of Maine. But like everything else this year, the norms have been turned upside down. We reduced prices when we thought the supply would hit assuming the market would follow the norm. But the opposite happened and we have been forced to re-raise our prices week after week like we would normally do in the offseason. Supply is limited, and consumer demand for lobster is the highest we’ve seen. That is reflected in the prices, the cost of the raw materials and our ability to satisfy our customer’s needs.

Our Promise

As always, we will continue to do our best to take care of our customers old and new, and be transparent in our pricing as it fluctuates. We are as surprised as you are and can’t predict where this will go or when it will stop. This inflation trend seems to be across the board, impacting prices in grocery, hardware, travel, etc. Lobster will normalize just like the rest. We just can’t predict when.

wholesale lobster

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Hugh’s Take: COVID 19 Pandemic and 2021 Lobster Shortage

This has been a crazy year for lobster. All commodities, lobster included, have their ups and downs, and we have certainly had our ups and downs this past year. Right now, we are seeing historic highs for live lobster and lobster products, partly because of an the increased demand, but mostly because of limited supply. We don’t have a lot of lobster to make it through the ‘off-season’ and we want to be sure to be upfront with our customers about where things stand.

Almost exactly a year ago I wrote to you about the effects of the COVID-19 pandemic, and the tariffs effect on the lobster industry. It was substantial. Business and trade all but stopped, and lobster products that had been stored for Chinese New Years festivities flooded the market with live lobster and lobster products. Prices plummeted to historic lows. Restaurants weren’t buying. Cruise ships, with their massive ‘all-you-can-eat’ lobster tail buffets, weren’t sailing. There was concern in the industry about where product was going and what would be the impact on pricing.

When prices reached historic lows in May and June, retailers and other buyers seized the opportunity to sell premium-quality lobster at a reasonable price point. Those customers who had a craving for seafood could buy Maine lobster products that were easy to prepare for that ‘fine-dining at home’ experience during COVID. Grocery stores started selling more lobster products, and small ‘summer’ lobster shacks saw huge growth in the ‘fast-casual’ sement across the country. Prices went up in August based on retail sales and the fast-casual lobster shacks.

There was plenty of demand through the summer based on the new breed of buyers, then, in September, the Asian market came roaring back. When the tariffs were removed, it was the first time in two years the Chinese could buy Maine lobster without a 32% tariff. That pent up demand fueled sales through the balance of the year and producers and suppliers sold as fast as they could because they were worried about the risk of holding inventory. One new COVID 19 ‘variation’ could shut down the world again and no one was willing to take the risk. There were no pounds, tubes or freezers being filled to sell in the off-season. It was being sold as soon as it was caught because no one was willing to place the bet and lose their shirt (again). Couple that with a very busy Chinese New Year and we are left with very little product in the marketplace. No one has any product. We can usually buy product at a higher price when we need it, but that is not the case right now. We are rationing with our customers to keep them supplied until the fishing starts up in the Spring.

So once again this is a ‘perfect storm,’ which always seems to be the case with commodities. We are making bets on supply and demand, and trying to figure out where the price is going and trying to keep up. Normally we have enough product to last us through the winter, or can at least buy more at a high price to keep our customers satisfied. But due to the limited winter fishing, fears of holding inventory and the return of the Chinese demand, we are left with very little product and not a lot of options.

We are doing all we can to keep our customers supplied but wanted to make sure all understood the market forces we are currently navigating. Thanks for your understanding and we will work with you to figure out the best way to move forward.

wholesale lobster

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Hugh’s Take — The 2020 challenge continues

Pandemic Shift

This has been s a unique and challenging year here in Stonington, Maine. COVID had a major impact to the start of the season. An oversupply of inventories being held for Chinese New Year flooded the domestic market with festivities cancelled and international freight and shipping to China all but stopped. There was a lot of lobster and not a lot of people buying. Restaurants were closed. Cruise ships were docked. The traditional buyers of Maine lobster were not in business for the summer. Then, to everyone’s surprise, a new market emerged and the summer brought a flurry of lobster consumption in the US through direct-to-consumer sales online and in grocery stores. People had not had a night out in months and lobster seemed to be the ‘home treat’ of choice. And when people did start to go out, New England style lobster shacks across the country were the ideal setting for an outdoor meal. Lobster rolls are a good ‘take-out’ option and a classic summer meal, and the demand has been there despite the challenges.

Limited Supply

This fall there seems to be a perfect storm brewing with limited supply and growing demand. There is uneasiness about the potential for the yearly catch. The ‘September Slump’ is typical and expected, but this month we have seen some of the worst fishing in decades. It is not uncommon to have very strong fishing in August and weak fishing in September, but this year it is more pronounced than it has been in the past. That coupled with revival of demand in the Europe and China markets, we are now paying a higher boat price at the docks and will need to raise our prices for our live and processed lobster.

Prices going up

You will see price increases across the industry and we will remain competitive with that pricing, for our boats and our customers. We are hoping the lobsters are late this year like they have been in the past. And that the heavy winds and big tides will stir things up and give our guys the hauls they need to salvage the season. But there have been seasons where they don’t show up at all. If that happens, we are all going to have to take a step back and figure out what to do.

For now, prices are up and that trend will continue until the lobsters hit.

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